Usbekistan - Bumpy beautiful with a quick farewell

After our roadtrip across Saudi Arabia it was time to go on. Heading for a tour on the Pamir Highway in Tajikistan, Usbekistan was the best option to make a stop-over and anyway, Usbekistan, especially Samarkand with its amazing Madresa architecture is a big line item on our bucket list.

Some other stops are important to plan, if you travel to Usbekistan, like the Samarkand neighborhood city Bukhara. As we didn’t want to stay too long, we were discussing about also visiting Khiva, what is a must-see, if we were on a shorter trip through Usbekistan only. If you want to make Usbekistan complete by discovering the famous Aral lake, which is continually shrinking, but still one of the biggest lakes of the world.

Our bumpy start in Usbekistan

After completing their pilgrimage to Medina and Mekka in Saudi Arabia, Uzbekistanis return home with a sense of spiritual fulfillment and rejuvenation, often bringing back souvenirs and gifts for their loved ones. The journey is considered a once-in-a-lifetime experience and is deeply rooted in the Islamic faith, symbolizing unity and devotion to Allah.

Anyway to mention that in the very beginning, we were not in the best mood at all in Usbekistan :) Tashkent, the capital was a great start. We did not have luggage checks at the airport and this lead to a disaster later. Drones are completely banned in Usbekistan, using, importing, even storing spare parts, often penalized with prison up to 10 years. Oh great! We were informed, that a mini drone like ours with ridiculous 249g is no problem at all. Against the expectation we were heavily screened at the train station in Tashkent on our way to Samarkand, also a big fail in the system, now we are already in the country with an illegal device not knowing how to behave. With a delayed cab we arrived for a quick passport check at the train station. Uff…not yet…another big luggage screening at the next entrance door and of course…“what is inside there? Camera? DRONE?!“ We heard these sentences every day after that. The security guard almost let us go, as I tipped on my watch, making him clear that our train is leaving in some minutes. He hesitated briefly but then insisted on opening the bag and voila, We had no chance than to unpack the drone :) Dozens of police and security men, also civil police stood around us, pictures of the unfolded drone together with our passport, many phone calls and nervous discussions followed. We saw ourselves at the police station with an unknown end. Would not have been the first time, that tourists have to stay for weeks for an expensive trip with lawyer, judge, prison and more. But we did not know and felt like criminals.

To keep the long story short, 1min before the train departed we were allowed to leave, we convinced them, that the drone is defect, what was true after a sandy thunder at Al‘Ula. The police men ran with us to the platform, the train left in front of us. We were able to jump on the next one, luckily 20min later and they even took care of our seat reservation. Unfortunately it was not the end of the story, we were still in possession of the drone. We couldn’t send it back home for reparation in Saudi, very unlucky with the following adventurous story. They let us alone with our drone story, so we put it into a box at the Uzbek post office, which is heavily checked, too. Every single post box is screened for any item, we even saw a post officer reading a letter of an older man, he wanted to sent out. This time we were lucky and they did not see the drone bag on the bottom of the box, they closed it in a very unique way with tape and individually sewn fabric, all great experiences, we would not have gathered without our drone story. Until today after almost 4 weeks the box did not arrive, we are not quite sure, if we will ever see it again, but minimum we did not have the drone in our luggage anymore.

Definitely a country with hard controls, cameras could be counted in order, no matter where you were standing or sitting. Unfortunately, we were very influenced by our past history, but in retrospect a boost of additional appreciation of our daily freedom at home.

Another fun fact: we were able to leave Samarkand airport without additional security checks and an older man welcomed us friendly, so we chose him as our taxi driver to the hotel. After the nervous drone train ride, we looked at each other quite stunned when he told us during the ride that he was working as a tourist police officer in addition to being a cab driver for two days. Today we get a laugh about it, with a little anger. A contradiction in terms, but typical for a country with such control. Police for or rather because of tourists? This did not exactly improve our feeling of being watched.

Our day of liberation: after discovering beautiful Samarkand, we decided to skip Bukhara, the third and only additional city, we wanted to explore, cancelled the hotel, catched a driver the morning after the post office visit and drove to the Tajik boarder to leave the country. This was anyway the planned route, only some days earlier haha.

Let‘s talk about Usbekistan - Fast Facts

Here are some fast facts about Uzbekistan that could be useful for your travel blog:

1. Uzbekistan is located in Central Asia and shares borders with Kazakhstan, Turkmenistan, Tajikistan, and Afghanistan.

2. The capital city of Uzbekistan is Tashkent.

3. The official language of Uzbekistan is Uzbek, which is a Turkic language.

4. Uzbekistan is a landlocked country, and the climate is mainly continental, with hot summers and cold winters.

5. The currency of Uzbekistan is the Uzbekistani som (UZS).

6. Uzbekistan is known for its beautiful architecture, including the Registan in Samarkand, the Ark Fortress in Bukhara, and the Khiva Old Town.

7. Uzbekistan is also famous for its traditional crafts, such as silk weaving, ceramics, and wood carving.

8. The Uzbek cuisine is known for its flavorful dishes, including pilaf, shashlik, and lagman.

9. The majority of the population in Uzbekistan follows Islam, with some minority groups practicing Christianity and Judaism.

10. Uzbekistan gained independence from the Soviet Union in 1991, and has since undergone significant political and economic reforms.

The political situation

Uzbekistan is a presidential republic with a strong executive branch and a dominant ruling party, the Uzbekistan Liberal Democratic Party. The current President, Shavkat Mirziyoyev, came to power in 2016 and has implemented various reforms to modernize the country's economy and political system, including the release of political prisoners and the relaxation of some media censorship. However, Uzbekistan still has a poor human rights record, with restrictions on freedom of speech, assembly, and religion. The government maintains tight control over the media and civil society organizations, and there have been reports of forced labor and torture in the country's cotton industry. Overall, while Uzbekistan has seen some positive changes in recent years, significant challenges remain in terms of political control and freedom.

Our first rain in Tashkent

Fast Facts Tashkent

• Tashkent is the capital city of Uzbekistan, located in the eastern part of the country.

• It is the largest city in Central Asia, with a population of over 2.5 million people.

• Tashkent is one of the oldest cities in the region, with a history dating back more than 2,000 years.

• The city has been ruled by various empires and powers over the centuries, including the Timurid dynasty, the Uzbek Shaybanids, the Russian Empire, and the Soviet Union.

• Tashkent is a major transportation hub and industrial center in Central Asia, with a diverse economy that includes manufacturing, agriculture, and services.

• The city has a mix of modern and traditional architecture, with notable landmarks such as the Amir Timur Museum, the Chorsu Bazaar, and the Tashkent TV Tower.

• Tashkent is known for its parks and green spaces, with over 80 parks and gardens throughout the city.

• The official language of Tashkent is Uzbek, but Russian and other languages are also widely spoken.

• Tashkent has a continental climate with hot summers and cold winters, with temperatures ranging from -15°C in winter to 40°C in summer.

Tashkent Metro and Chorsu Bazaar

Our first day of travel in Tashkent started off with a downpour of rain. As much as we were looking forward to exploring the city, the rainy weather made it difficult to do so. However, instead of letting the rain dampen our spirits, we decided to make the most of our day by exploring the metro underground of Tashkent and the exciting Chorsu bazar until the rain ended.

We started off our day by heading to the metro station. The metro system in Tashkent is one of the oldest in Central Asia, with the first line opened in 1977. The metro is not just a convenient way of getting around the city, but also a showcase of unique Soviet-era architecture. We were amazed by the grandeur of the underground stations and the intricate mosaic work on the walls.

Yellow marked: Metro Stations we checked out after a quick research through travel blogs.

• The Tashkent metro is the first and only metro system in Uzbekistan, serving the capital city of Tashkent.

• It opened on November 6, 1977, and currently consists of three lines and 38 stations.

• The total length of the system is approximately 52.2 kilometers (32.4 miles).

• The Tashkent metro is known for its unique and ornate architecture, featuring colorful mosaics, chandeliers, and intricate ceiling designs.

• It is also one of the deepest metro systems in the world, with some stations located over 100 meters (328 feet) below ground level.

• The metro operates from 5:00 am to midnight, with trains running every 3-4 minutes during peak hours.

• The Tashkent metro is a popular mode of transportation for locals and tourists alike, with over 500,000 passengers using the system daily.

• In 2001, the Tashkent metro was designated as a cultural heritage site by the government of Uzbekistan.

• …and of course, your bags are screened and police is securing all entrances and platforms.

Not having local cash at all, we were not able to purchase metro tickets at the service desk, it was not easy to communicate with them. Showing our Visa card they sent us back to the trains ... and voila, we were able to pay wireless and cashless at the metro turnstile, just paying instantly, nice. And surprisingly a ride into one direction is 12Ct. That will be a cheap metro tour across Tashkent.

After exploring the metro, we headed to the Chorsu bazaar. This famous market is a bustling hub of activity, selling everything from spices and textiles to meats and fresh produce. The market is a vibrant and colorful place, with vendors calling out their wares and the smells of food filling the air. We wandered through the market, admiring the goods on offer and trying some of the local street food.

One of the amazing usbek specialties we discovered at the bazaar was bread.

In Uzbekistan, bread is more than just a staple food. It is a symbol of hospitality, tradition, and cultural heritage. And one type of bread that stands out above the rest is the special Uzbekistan bread, also known as "lepyoshka".

The lepyoshka is a round, flatbread made from flour, water, salt, and yeast. It is traditionally baked in a tandoor, a cylindrical clay oven heated by wood or charcoal, which gives the bread a unique flavor and texture. The lepyoshka is often stamped with intricate patterns using a special tool called a "chekich", which not only adds to its aesthetic appeal but also helps the bread to cook evenly.

The lepyoshka has been a part of Uzbek cuisine for centuries and is deeply ingrained in the country's cultural identity. In fact, it is considered so important that it has been designated as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

In Uzbekistan, the lepyoshka is much more than just a food item. It is a symbol of hospitality, as it is often served to guests as a sign of welcome and respect. It is also a symbol of tradition, as it has been baked in the same way for generations and continues to be an important part of daily life in Uzbekistan.

Despite its importance, the lepyoshka is not difficult to make. With just a few simple ingredients and some practice, anyone can make a delicious batch of Uzbekistan's special bread. And while it may not have the same taste or texture as the traditional lepyoshka baked in a tandoor, it is still a delicious and unique bread that is worth trying.

Everywhere we saw and felt the preparation for Novruz, a very special time with a lot of decoration and special food.

Novruz is a traditional festival celebrated in Uzbekistan and many other countries in Central Asia, Iran, and Azerbaijan. Novruz marks the beginning of spring and the start of a new year in the Persian calendar. The festival usually takes place on March 21st, the spring equinox, and lasts for several days.

One of the traditional dishes associated with Novruz in Uzbekistan is Nishalda, a creamy desert made with water, sugar, egg whites, licorice root, vanilla and anis. The preparation is a communal activity, with friends and family members gathering to help with the preparation and cooking process.

During Novruz, people in Uzbekistan also engage in various other traditional activities and customs, such as jumping over bonfires, visiting friends and relatives, exchanging gifts and sweets, and performing traditional dances and music. Novruz is an important celebration in Uzbekistan, reflecting the country's rich cultural heritage and the importance of community and tradition in Uzbek society, very linked to the Persian history.

Our city walk through Tashkent

Our city walk across Tashkent was a wonderful way to explore the cultural and historical heritage of Uzbekistan's capital. We strolled through the bustling streets, admiring the grand Soviet-era architecture and vibrant markets that showcase the local culture. The highlight of the walk was visiting the Hazrat Imam Complex, a stunning religious site that houses several ancient manuscripts, including the world-famous Quran of Caliph Uthman.

We also had the opportunity to indulge in the city's delicious street food and interact with the friendly locals, who were always willing to share their stories and experiences. Overall, our city walk was a fantastic experience that left us with a deep appreciation for Tashkent's rich history and welcoming culture.

At the Hazrati Imam complex I heard the voice of a woman, who came straight ahead to us with her daughter and grandchild. She expected Patrik to be from Sweden, was a little confused about the German answer, but kept laughing again and asked for a photo in front of the Madrasa. Again English was not the main kind of communication, but human beings have hands, feet, creativity and empathy to cross these boarders quickly :) If you visit Central Asia with a certain level of Russian, it is definitely a huge advantage, as they all speak Russian after their time being part of the UdSSR.

And as promised by different weather forecasts, we were able to enjoy a sunny late afternoon in Tashkent's streets.