Traversing the Anzob Tunnel: A Nerve-Wracking Experience to get to Tajikistan

As mentioned before, we spontaneously decided to leave Usbekistan behind us to get away from the feelings of being criminals :) We quickly found a taxi driver, who did not bring us to Dushanbe, but minimum to the land border close to Panjakent. Anyway this was our planned route to go on our Pamir Highway tour and luckily the border opened one or two years ago, it’s a great way to get to Dushanbe after exploring all the Madrasahs of Usbekistan.

It took not even 10 seconds to find a driver for the other side. Still on the usbek side we opened the doors of the car and three guys offered their service to bring us to Dushanbe. The smartest driver gave us many reasons to pick him and for great 80$ we would be in the capitol of Tajikistan, we couldn’t believe it. While our driver navigated his car with our backpacks through the border area, we had to walk in parallel, from one check point to another. After the successful exit the Tajiks checked our passports, stamped it and the next roadtrip could start.

Two shots out of our Formular 1 car, showing the Fann Mountains, a region, where you could stay another week or so. It gave us a first taste of what's coming next.

The guys insisted of making a picture from us in front of their shop during our short break in the mountains. The stuff was cooled down by mountain water, pretty nice cooling system.

The first great impressions of the next days coming in the Pamir mountains.

Us with our Formular 1 driver on top of the Anzob pass, it was very hard to open the eyes, because of the sun and the snowy mountains around.

We were not quite sure, if our driver was a Formular 1 driver with horn or if this is the Tajik style. Cutting curves was priority number one and if a sign showed 40, it was cooler to race the car through the villages and the Fann mountains, which were beautiful by the way. Using the horn is a great way of communicating on two or four wheels. Warning people ahead of a curve, thanking people, if they let you pass, expecting to pass the car or truck in front, greeting friends along the way. There are so many ways, how the horn plays a key role in the central Asian language:)

The spring started and we had a chance to get to know the western part of Tajikistan as well. What we didn’t know: there was only one way to cross the mountains in a height of 2700m: the tunnel of fear and death.

1. The Anzob tunnel is a 5.4-kilometer-long tunnel that runs through the Anzob Pass in the Zeravshan Range in Tajikistan.

2. It was built in the 1970s to provide a more direct and reliable route between the capital city of Dushanbe and the northern region of Tajikistan.

3. The tunnel is located at an elevation of 2,720 meters above sea level and is subject to extreme weather conditions, including heavy snowfall in the winter.

4. The tunnel was closed for renovation in 2012 and reopened in 2015, after a significant overhaul that included widening the tunnel and installing new ventilation and lighting systems.

5. The Anzob tunnel is considered to be one of the most dangerous roads in the world, with steep drop-offs, narrow lanes, and a lack of guardrails.

6. Despite the risks, the tunnel is an important transportation artery in Tajikistan, carrying thousands of vehicles every day and connecting the country to neighboring Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan.

7. The tunnel is even an owner chapter of Atlas Obscura. Check, we did it.

No picture can express the feelings we had inside of this tunnel, so maybe these videos are another great inspiration for you. By car and wow by bike, for the Pamir biking tourists there is also no other option than crossing the tunnel.

The Anzob tunnel in Tajikistan was financed by the Soviet Union during its construction in the 1970s. Tajikistan was then a part of the Soviet Union, and the tunnel was built to improve transportation links between the capital city of Dushanbe and the northern regions of the country.

Regarding Iran's role, it's worth noting that Iran was involved in the reconstruction of the Anzob tunnel after it was damaged by a landslide in 2002. Iran provided funding for the reconstruction effort, and Iranian companies were involved in the construction work. The project was part of a larger effort to improve transportation links between Iran and Tajikistan and to increase economic cooperation between the two countries. The reconstruction of the Anzob tunnel was completed in 2006.

The Anzob Tunnel in Tajikistan is an engineering feat, a passageway through the mountains connecting the northern and southern parts of the country. For travelers heading from Samarkand to Dushanbe, the capital city of Tajikistan, passing through the tunnel is an inevitable part of the journey. However, for many, including ourselves, the experience can be downright terrifying.

As we approached the tunnel, we noticed that the driver began to speed up. Our hearts raced as we wondered why he was in such a hurry. Suddenly, we were rushing through the tunnel, which was completely dark except for the dim light of our car's headlights. The road was bumpy, and we were jolted around in our seats with every turn.

To make matters worse, there was heavy fog inside the tunnel, making it difficult to see anything at all. We were completely disoriented, unable to tell where we were or how far we had to go. The darkness and fog combined to create an eerie atmosphere, making us feel like we were in a horror movie.

5km straight through the ridge. After 3 minutes the first car came from the other side, it was the first time we realized that it’s really only straight forward.

It was scary until we saw the first car to understand what is going on in there.

Two tunnels, but only one was open and there was only a little space between the two directions.

In conclusion, passing through the Anzob Tunnel in Tajikistan can be a nerve-wracking experience. The darkness, bumpy road, and heavy fog can make it feel like a journey into the unknown. However, for those who make it through safely, the experience can also be a reminder of the beauty and wonder of the world's most challenging roads.