Surprising Views in Tajikistan‘s capital Dushanbe
As we checked into our hotel in Dushanbe, the capital of Tajikistan, we had no idea what a stunning view awaited us. As we opened the curtains in our hotel room, we were greeted by an awe-inspiring vista of green hills and snowy mountains stretching out before us. The mountains were bathed in a warm golden light, creating a magical and unforgettable scene. We felt so lucky to be there, taking in the beauty of Tajikistan's natural landscapes and feeling a deep sense of peace and happiness in our hearts. It was a moment we would never forget.
And the best part of our Central Asia agenda was in front of us, with supposedly lots of such awesome views: our journey to the "Roof of the World". But firstly, let's stay some moments in the capital of Tajikistan.
We also liked the city a lot, it was a nice and quiet atmosphere and we found some nice spots during the stay. These kinds of signs are everywhere around Tajikistan, of course every village needs some love :)
Some quick facts about Dushanbe:
Dushanbe is the capital and largest city of Tajikistan, located in the heart of Central Asia. Dushanbe is a bustling city with a mix of traditional and modern elements, and a population of around 1,200,000 people. The way of life in Dushanbe is heavily influenced by Islam, with many mosques and a strong emphasis on family and community. The President of Tajikistan, Emomali Rahmon, has been in power since 1992 and is known for his efforts to modernize the country's economy and infrastructure. Traffic in Dushanbe can be congested and chaotic, with many drivers ignoring traffic rules and regulations. Fun facts about Dushanbe include the fact that it is home to the world's second tallest flagpole, standing at 165 meters tall, and that it is known for its delicious cuisine, including traditional dishes like plov and shashlik.
The city's name means "Monday" in Tajik, as it was traditionally a weekly market held on Mondays. Around 1626 the city had around 8000 inhabitants compared with today's 1,200,000 people, making it Tajikistan's most populous city.
Here are some of the top sights you can visit in Dushanbe:
National Museum of Tajikistan: The museum is located in the center of Dushanbe and is one of the largest museums in Central Asia, with a vast collection of artifacts and exhibits that tell the story of Tajikistan's history and culture.
Rudaki Park: It is one of the most popular parks in Dushanbe, with beautiful fountains, a playground for children, and an amusement park.
Somoni Monument: Located in the heart of Dushanbe, the monument is dedicated to Ismail Samani, the founder of the Samanid dynasty.
Gurminj Museum of Musical Instruments: The museum has an extensive collection of traditional Tajik musical instruments and also features live performances by local musicians.
Botanical Garden: The garden is home to a wide variety of flora and fauna, and also has a beautiful greenhouse with exotic plants.
Haji Yakoub Mosque: It is one of the largest and most beautiful mosques in Dushanbe, known for its intricate design and beautiful architecture.
Victory Park: Located on a hill overlooking the city, the park offers stunning views of Dushanbe and also has a large monument dedicated to the Soviet victory in World War II.
Noor Art Gallery: The gallery features a collection of contemporary Tajik art, including paintings, sculptures, and other works by local artists.
Varzob Gorge: Located just outside the city, the gorge is a popular spot for hiking and picnicking, with beautiful waterfalls, streams, and natural pools.
Ismaili Centre: It is a beautiful building designed by the famous Indian architect, Charles Correa, and serves as a cultural and religious center for the Ismaili community in Tajikistan.
Interesting bird lamps in the green and beautiful Rudaki Park in the center of the city.
The Rudaki Statue in Rudaki Park is a bronze monument of the famous Tajik poet, Rudaki, standing tall with one hand on his hip and the other holding a book. The statue is surrounded by lush greenery and benches, providing a peaceful spot for visitors to relax and enjoy the scenery.
The National Parliament of Dushanbe is an impressive building located in the heart of the city. The building features a grand facade with columns and large windows, as well as a spacious courtyard and gardens. Inside, the parliament chambers are decorated with ornate details and artwork, and the building is equipped with modern technology for conducting legislative business. The National Parliament is a symbol of Tajikistan's democratic government and serves as a hub for political activity in the country.
The Opera of Dushanbe is a beautiful building located in the center of the city. Its elegant facade features ornate details and columns, and the interior is adorned with chandeliers, frescoes, and plush seating. The opera house hosts a range of performances, from classical music to ballet and opera, and is a cultural hub for the city's residents and visitors.
One interesting story about the Opera of Dushanbe is that it was actually built during the Soviet era as a gift to the Tajik people. The opera house was designed by famous Soviet architects, and construction was completed in 1940. However, during the Second World War, the building was repurposed as a hospital for wounded soldiers, and it wasn't until 1946 that the opera house officially opened its doors to the public.
A typical Dushanbe urban house front with a lot of city apartments.
Not necessarily a typical feature of traditional Tajik architecture, but they have become a common element of modern urban planning in Dushanbe. In recent years, the city has undergone significant development, and many new boulevards have been created to enhance the city's livability and provide space for leisure and recreation. One example is Rudaki Avenue, a wide, tree-lined boulevard that runs through the heart of the city and features a mix of shops, restaurants, and public spaces. The boulevard is a popular gathering spot for locals and visitors alike, and offers a vibrant snapshot of modern life in Dushanbe.
The National Library of Tajikistan
The National Library of Dushanbe is the largest library in Tajikistan, housing over six million books, manuscripts, and other materials. The library was established in 1931 and has since become a cultural and intellectual center in the country. The building itself is an impressive example of Soviet-era architecture, featuring a grand facade and a spacious interior with reading rooms and exhibition spaces.
We were reading (and not able to proof it), that before the grand opening of the library, every household had to donate one book and even after that, many parts of the library was empty and closed for the public to not show the empty shelves :)
The role of Ismail Samani across the city
Ismail Samani was an important figure in Tajikistan's history, and his legacy has had a lasting impact on the country and its capital city, Dushanbe. Samani was the founder of the Samanid dynasty, which ruled over much of Central Asia during the 9th and 10th centuries. He is remembered for his contributions to art, literature, and architecture, and his reign is often referred to as a golden age of Persian culture. In Dushanbe, there are several monuments and landmarks dedicated to Samani, including the Ismail Samani Mausoleum, which is considered one of the most important architectural landmarks in Central Asia. Samani's legacy continues to inspire Tajikistan's cultural identity and national pride.
Corruption and Traffic Controls in Tajikistan
Corruption is a serious problem in Tajikistan, with the country ranking among the most corrupt in the world. Poverty and lack of transparency contribute to the prevalence of corruption, which undermines public trust in institutions, hinders economic development, and exacerbates poverty and inequality. Although efforts have been made to combat corruption, progress has been slow, and many remain skeptical about the government's commitment to addressing the issue. Tackling corruption in Tajikistan will require sustained political will and a commitment to transparency and accountability.
We had dozens of traffic checks, where our driver refused to pay something to the police men, he just said no, good one! And we tried to help him watching the conversations, as we knew, that they don't like tourists to watch the payments:) Also in Dushanbe we recognized many traffic checks and I supposed money transfers in the handshakes. Greeting police men with a handshake in a European check, unbelievable.
Our favorite spot for our last days before the Pamir - Cafe Moose
Cafe Moose in Dushanbe is a popular destination for coffee lovers and those seeking a cozy, relaxed atmosphere. One interesting fact about the cafe is that it was established by a group of young Tajik entrepreneurs who were inspired by the coffee culture they experienced during their travels abroad. The cafe features a rustic, cabin-like interior with wooden tables and chairs, and offers a variety of coffee drinks, snacks, and desserts. Cafe Moose has become a hub for the city's creative and entrepreneurial community, and hosts events and workshops on a regular basis.
For a change we got our favorite coffee with alternative dairy and could. enjoy delicious dishes such as Thai beef noodles and of course a delicious dessert could not be missing. Since the wifi works excellently and is accessible without a local number, many digital nomads, but also local young people have made themselves comfortable there to work.
Removing Soviet for a new national identity
In recent years, Dushanbe has seen the removal of some Soviet-era buildings, including government buildings, apartments, and monuments. The removal of these buildings is part of a larger effort by the Tajik government to modernize the city and to create a more distinct national identity.
Soviet-era architecture in Dushanbe was often characterized by a functionalist style and uniformity, with many buildings sharing similar designs and materials. The Tajik government sees the removal of some of these buildings as a way to create a more diverse and visually interesting cityscape.
Additionally, the removal of Soviet monuments and symbols is seen as a way to distance Tajikistan from its Soviet past and to promote a stronger sense of national identity. Tajikistan gained independence from the Soviet Union in 1991, and the removal of Soviet-era buildings and monuments is a reflection of the country's efforts to create a distinct cultural identity.
One night we were eating in the old and famous Teahouse Rohat, which was also on the list to be removed to clean the streets from the Soviet style. Fun fact: because Tripadvisor said it’s a good place for vegetarians, we went there within our neighborhood. As all meals were with meat, they just removed the meat from the famous usbek stou and offered a great „vegetarianski“ meal. Pieces of meat floating on top quickly discovered the hoax. Vegetarian is simply not yet existent in Central Asia.
The Rohat teahouse in Dushanbe is a popular local spot that dates back to the Soviet era. The teahouse is known for its traditional decor and atmosphere, which harkens back to a time when Dushanbe was a thriving center of Soviet culture.
During the Soviet era, many teahouses and cafes like Rohat were built to provide spaces for socializing and leisure activities. These places were often designed in a distinctive Soviet style, which was characterized by utilitarian architecture and a lack of ornamentation.
The Rohat teahouse is a prime example of this style, with its simple exterior and functional design. Inside, the teahouse is decorated with traditional Tajik elements such as woven textiles, carved wooden furniture, and colorful rugs.
While the Soviet era brought many changes to Dushanbe and other cities in the region, its influence can still be seen in the city's architecture and culture. The Rohat teahouse is a reminder of this legacy, and a popular gathering spot for locals and tourists alike.
However, the Soviet era also had some negative consequences for Tajikistan, including environmental degradation, economic instability, and political repression. Since gaining independence in 1991, Tajikistan has worked to overcome these challenges and to build a more prosperous and democratic society. The Rohat teahouse, with its blend of traditional and Soviet-era influences, is a reflection of this ongoing process of cultural and social evolution.
Work & Income in Tajikistan
Talking about Digital Nomads and work, let's have a look on the situation of work and salaries.
Jobs and salaries in Dushanbe and Tajikistan vary greatly depending on the industry and level of education or experience. The country's economy is largely based on agriculture and remittances from workers abroad, but there are also growing sectors such as construction, hospitality, and services. Salaries in these industries tend to be modest, with many workers earning minimum wage or less. However, there are also higher-paying jobs in fields such as finance, technology, and government, and the cost of living in Dushanbe and other major cities is generally lower than in other parts of the world.
Tajikistan is one of the poorest countries in Central Asia, with a GDP per capita of around $1,200 USD in 2021.
The country's economy is heavily reliant on remittances from Tajik citizens working abroad, which account for around 30% of GDP.
Agriculture is also a significant sector in Tajikistan, with cotton, fruits, and vegetables among the main exports.
The country has made progress in recent years in terms of economic growth, with an average annual growth rate of around 7% between 2010 and 2020.
However, income inequality remains a major issue, with a large proportion of the population living in poverty.
The average monthly salary in Tajikistan is around $150 USD, though this can vary widely depending on the industry and location.
The government has introduced a number of economic reforms in recent years aimed at increasing foreign investment and diversifying the economy, but there is still much work to be done to address poverty and other economic challenges.
Comparing the way of living of the President and his closest people in Tajikistan to the average citizen is a stark contrast. The country's President, Emomali Rahmon, and his inner circle are known for their lavish lifestyles and extravagant spending habits. Here are some fun facts about their spending:
President Rahmon's official salary is only around $12,000 USD per year, but he and his family reportedly control a vast business empire worth billions of dollars.
The President's family owns multiple palatial homes and expensive vehicles, including a fleet of luxury cars and a private jet.
The President's son, Rustam Emomali, is widely considered to be one of the country's most powerful figures and has been linked to numerous high-profile business deals.
Rustam Emomali is also known for his love of luxury cars and reportedly owns a collection worth millions of dollars, including several Lamborghinis and Ferraris.
The President's daughter, Ozoda Rahmon, is a powerful figure in her own right and has been linked to a number of high-profile business deals, including the construction of the country's largest mall.
The President and his family are also known for their love of expensive jewelry, with reports of multi-million dollar purchases at high-end jewelry stores in Europe and the Middle East.
Here are some of the notable presidential construction projects in Tajikistan. The city seems to change at a rapid pace, but we are not quite sure, if every dollar is addressed to increase the wealth and health of Tajikistans population:
New Presidential Palace - A new state-of-the-art presidential palace in Dushanbe, reportedly costing over $300 million.
Roghun Dam - A hydroelectric dam project on the Vakhsh River in southern Tajikistan that has been under construction for over 30 years and is expected to become one of the tallest dams in the world.
Navruz Palace - A new luxury palace in Dushanbe built for official ceremonies and receptions.
Istiqlol Palace - A grandiose palace in Dushanbe built for hosting events and conferences.
Dushanbe Stadium - A large sports stadium that has been under renovation to upgrade its facilities and modernize its design.
The construction site of the new presidential palace next to our hotel. A huge road Leads directly totlachen the front of the palace over kilometers.
A lot of pictures on the streets are showing the projects to make the people excited. By the way there are also thousands of pictures of the President all over the country, even in the smallest villages.
These examples show that there is a significant wealth gap between the country's ruling elite and the majority of the population. While Tajikistan has made progress in terms of economic growth in recent years, poverty and inequality remain major challenges that need to be addressed.
BMW's in Tajikistan
There is a surprising story about BMW's in Tajikistan. In 2015, the country's government banned the import of all vehicles older than 10 years in an effort to improve road safety and reduce air pollution. However, the ban had an unintended consequence - it led to a surge in the popularity of BMW's among the country's wealthy elite.
Since BMW's were exempt from the ban due to their high quality and low emissions, they became a status symbol for Tajikistan's affluent class. As a result, the streets of the capital city, Dushanbe, became flooded with expensive BMW's, causing some locals to refer to the city as "BMW-stan".
This surge in demand for luxury cars also led to an increase in car thefts, with many BMW's being stolen and smuggled out of the country. In response, the government implemented stricter regulations on car imports, but the popularity of BMW's in Tajikistan remains high to this day.
Where to stay in Dushanbe?
Dushanbe, the capital city of Tajikistan, has a few different areas that offer great accommodation options. Here are a few recommendations for where to stay in Dushanbe:
1. Rudaki Avenue: This is the main street in Dushanbe and it's where you'll find many of the city's best restaurants, shops, and hotels. Staying here will put you in the heart of the action and within walking distance of many of the city's top sights, such as the National Museum of Tajikistan and the Ismaili Center.
2. Shohmansur District: This is a quieter area of Dushanbe that's still within easy reach of the city center. It's a good choice if you're looking for a more relaxed atmosphere and want to be close to the city's parks and green spaces. The Shohmansur District is also home to the Tajikistan National University and several embassies.
3. Somoni District: This area is located to the east of Rudaki Avenue and is a great choice if you want to be close to the city's historic sights. The Somoni District is home to several museums, including the Museum of Antiquities, as well as the presidential palace and the Opera and Ballet Theatre.
4. Firdavsi District: This is a residential area that's a bit further away from the city center, but it's a good choice if you're looking for budget accommodation. There are several guesthouses and hostels in this area that offer affordable rates.
Ultimately, the best area to stay in Dushanbe will depend on your preferences and budget. But by considering the above recommendations, you should be able to find a great place to stay that's close to the sights, restaurants, and other attractions you want to explore.
How to move around in Dushanbe?
When it comes to getting around in Dushanbe, there are several transportation options available to you. Taxis are plentiful and relatively affordable, with most rides within the city center costing between 10 and 20 somoni (0,84Ct bis 1,70€). It's important to negotiate the fare before getting into the taxi to avoid any misunderstandings.
Another popular option is the city's bus network, which covers most parts of the city and is very cheap, with fares starting at just 1 somoni. However, buses can be crowded and uncomfortable, especially during rush hour.
If you're looking for a more flexible way to get around, consider renting a car or a scooter. This will give you the freedom to explore the city and its surroundings at your own pace, and you'll be able to avoid the hassle of negotiating taxi fares or waiting for public transport. Whatever method of transportation you choose, be sure to take the usual precautions to stay safe, such as avoiding empty streets at night and keeping an eye on your belongings.
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