Pamir People - living with mother nature‘s extremes

So many times I have wondered how it is possible that in the poorest areas of the world, people are the most open, helpful and will share even the last piece of bread with you. I found this sentence somewhere: Tajikistan is a rather peaceful country where widespread poverty is mitigated by extremely low expectations. And this seems to be the answer to my question.

Low expectations...

I also have a problem, because on the one hand I am experiencing human kindness, I am getting to know beautiful places, and on the other hand I am being hit by this grey, sad reality that is so depressing and from which I wanted to escape.

This trip was supposed to be a stimulation, providing new stimuli to keep up a decent level of optimism and not vomit at the thought of what hideous mechanisms govern this world.

Pamiri Woman collecting delicious central Asian bread from her oven. We got one to taste and it was tooooo good!

Pamir has won my heart - hospitable people, beautiful nature. All that I have shown you so far is true, but it is only a slice of the reality we have licked as tourists in Tajikistan. The country has many more secrets that are not talked about out loud.

I associate Tajikistan, or rather Pamir, with mountains of course, but above all with hospitable and open people. Each day they offered us tea several times, gave us bread they had baked, often invited us for a meal or offered us a roof over our heads for the night.

Such is Pamir, such are the people who live here. Their kindness, combined with the high mountain peaks and beautiful nature, gives the image of a fairytale land. And yet, life here is nothing like a fairy tale.

In every homestay we felt welcomed and they shared the last bread with us.

People live in very humble conditions. In many places in Pamir, electricity is poor and only available in the evenings and mornings. There is no running water in most villages. Everyday we pass dozens of women and children carrying buckets of water from the river or special taps. Sanitation can only be dreamed of. An outcrop is usually at least 50 metres away from the house, which is inconvenient in winter. There is no such thing as a bathroom, in our European understanding, in private homes.

People are living in all heights and environments, here a shepherd and a village boy who helped us to find the Buddha temple in the mountains.

A traditional Pamir architecture, very islam-oriented with 5 parts standing for the Five Pillars of Islam.

A multi-functional oven, like we had one for warmer nights in Murghab. Warming, Tea, Washing Water, Cooking water and more.

Had it not been for the Pamir Highway built by the Russians during Soviet times, it is quite possible that there would be no road in this area. Public transport between the smaller villages is almost non-existent. There are so-called shared taxis, but for longer distances. If someone wants to get to a village lets say 6 km away and does not have a car, they have to walk. Besides, cars break down all the time and petrol is expensive.

A man walking from village to village.

On days off from school and after school, the kids work. They look after the sheep and goats, collect and then carry on their backs dry brambles for firewood, help in the fields. This may not be unusual given that they live in the countryside, but they don't have an easy or carefree life either.

In the higher villages, farming is almost non-existent. It is too cold and there is too little oxygen to grow anything of value. So there are no fruit and vegetables. You can, of course, buy them at the market, but the prices are high and the quality is poor. Cows don't give milk because they don't get valuable food.

Pamiri people in Murghab working, chilling and shopping in the local container bazaar.

The Tajik-Afghan Border

And as if that wasn't enough, there is some more complication thanks to the border between Afghanistan and Tajikistan.

The Tajik-Afghan border is an important geopolitical boundary that separates two countries with distinct cultures, histories, and political systems. The border is particularly important for the people who live on both sides, as it shapes their daily lives and interactions in numerous ways.

Many people who live in the border region have strong family and cultural ties that transcend the boundary, and they rely on cross-border trade and exchange for their livelihoods. However, in recent years, the border has become increasingly militarized and closed off, making it difficult for people to travel or conduct business across the boundary.

This closure has had a profound impact on the people who live in the region, as it has disrupted longstanding cultural and economic ties and led to increased poverty and insecurity. In addition, the closure has had negative environmental impacts, as it has led to increased deforestation, overgrazing, and illegal wildlife trade, among other issues.

A closed and well-prepared border bridge. On the right side is the closed market, which ensured great cultural exchange between Afghanistan and Tajikistan and brought together Pamir People from both sides. On the left you can now see the white Taliban flags - impossible to keep these traditions.

To address these challenges, there have been calls to open up the border and facilitate more cross-border cooperation and trade, while also promoting sustainable development and conservation efforts. Such initiatives would not only benefit the people who live in the region but also contribute to broader regional stability and peace.

Ultimately, the Tajik-Afghan border is a complex and multifaceted issue that requires careful attention and engagement from all stakeholders, including governments, civil society groups, and local communities.