Pamir Day 2-8: Bumpy Roads to Murghab and Wakhan Valley
Embarking on a journey on the Pamir Highway is an adventure of a lifetime. From the stunning landscapes to the unique culture of the region, this trip offers a remarkable experience that will leave a lasting impression. Our day 2 until day 8 tour on the Pamir Highway was nothing short of amazing as we explored some of the most picturesque towns and villages in the region.
On our first night, we slept in Kulaikhum (blog post), a small town situated on the border between Tajikistan and Afghanistan. The town is surrounded by beautiful mountains and offers an authentic experience of traditional Pamiri life.
The next day, we continued our journey and reached Chorogh, a bustling town known for its bustling market and warm hospitality.
Bye Bye Kalai Khumb.
Some climbing, but wort the view over this lake.
Time for a picture of our driver Kubat on a near lake.
A guy checking his car outdoor, Panj river a little hidden and an Afghan village on the other side.
We got the promised rough roads starting with the second day, but therefore amazing views.
The picture depicts the common usage of both petrol and gas in cars in Tajikistan's Pamir region. The two guys from the gas station are filling up both the petrol and gas tanks of our car, as it is a common practice for drivers in this region to use both fuels to power their vehicles. The usage of gas in cars has gained popularity in Tajikistan due to its lower cost compared to petrol, making it an affordable alternative for many drivers. Additionally, the Pamir region has limited access to petrol, and gas is more readily available, making it a practical choice for drivers traveling through the area.
And we had our check on the car, Kubat was not happy with a noise on the right front wheel, but he was able to fix it within 15 Minutes. We used that time to play with some kids, talking to their parents and of course inspecting the Afghan border:
A bathroom with an outdoor sink was also there...
...with all you need :)
Chorogh
Relaxed we reached Korogh. Here are some quick facts about the city:
It is a capital city of the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region (GBAO) in Tajikistan.
GBAO is located in the eastern part of Tajikistan and is known for its rugged and remote terrain, as well as its unique cultural heritage. Khorog is situated in a valley along the Panj River, surrounded by towering mountains and stunning scenery. It is the main commercial and administrative center of GBAO, and is home to a number of important institutions, including the regional government, university, hospital, and airport. You find more on our blog.
The town is situated at an altitude of 3,100 meters and is located on the border with Afghanistan, with a bridge connecting the two countries.
Chorogh is known for its bustling market, which is a popular destination for traders from both Tajikistan and Afghanistan.
It is also home to a number of historical and cultural attractions, including the Khorog Regional Museum and the Ismaili Centre, a cultural and religious center for the Ismaili community.
Chorogh is surrounded by stunning mountain scenery, with several peaks over 6,000 meters in the nearby Pamir Mountains.
The town is a popular stop for travelers exploring the Pamir Highway, with several guesthouses and small hotels available for accommodation.
It is also home to several universities and educational institutions, including the University of Central Asia and the Khorog State University.
The town has a diverse population, with Tajiks, Kyrgyz, and other ethnic groups living in the area.
The region around the city is known for its agricultural production, with crops like apricots, mulberries, and walnuts grown in the area.
Chorogh is a gateway to some of the most remote and beautiful parts of Tajikistan, making it a must-visit destination for adventurous travelers.
We stayed in a very nice guesthouse and got some delicious pamir dinner before we all fell quickly asleep. Even if you are only driving by car, you can get tired by the height.
On the third day of our tour, we reached Murghab, a high-altitude town situated at an elevation of 3,600 meters. The town offers breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains and is a popular stop for travelers on the Pamir Highway. We spent half a day exploring the town and its surroundings before heading out on a one day tour to Lake Kara Kul.
But we dont want to miss the chance to show you our highlights from the trip.
First we were fast enough for this snapshot of the next family dinner. As mentioned often, animals are important parts of the Pamir families - in different ways.
A closed road...grrrr. But 30min fun with some locals, almost a new trip companion, some drunk guys and the whole village returning from the Nowruz parties. Therefore they close the main road of the village, what I also know from my home town, but unfortu this is the only way to go on the Pamir Highway. Kubat took a walk across the village and found some agreement with the policeman, uff, only a short break.
While someone in the car took a powernap (due to the sleepless night caused by the earthquake). Gabriela woke up as we passed the village crowd, because we had to drive through the party dancefloor along the village main road. Did not feel right to get these extra tourist confirmations.
It was time to go up into snow regions for the first time, we could not stop enjoying, every kilometer was so impressive and was providing new appearances and secrets. Hard to see on the first picture, the so called Marco Polo sheep, fortunately Kubat had good eyes to spot them, but this was the only opportunity to take a shot (with the camera of course), as they were usually so far up in the mountains.
The Marco Polo sheep, also known as argali, is a majestic mountain sheep species found in Tajikistan's Pamir region. These sheep are famous for their impressive ability to pass through steep mountains with elevations of over 5000 meters, which is higher than any other wild sheep species. They are well adapted to life in the harsh mountainous terrain, with their long legs and broad hooves providing excellent traction on rocky slopes. Their distinctive spiraled horns, which can grow up to 180 cm in length, make them a prized target for hunters, leading to conservation efforts to protect this magnificent species. Despite their remarkable agility and endurance, the Marco Polo sheep population is threatened by habitat loss, hunting, and climate change, highlighting the need for their conservation.
Hunting Marco Polo sheep is allowed in some regions of Tajikistan, but it is highly regulated and requires a permit. The hunting season is limited, and only a certain number of permits are issued each year to help manage the population and prevent overhunting. Additionally, hunting is only permitted for mature males, and there are restrictions on the number of animals that can be hunted in a single season. Despite these regulations, poaching remains a significant threat to the Marco Polo sheep population, and conservation efforts are essential to ensure their survival.
It became spectacular.
And we met a family from Murghab, Kubats hometown and couldn't believe, that they also had their dinner in preparation.
On the way, the weather got rough, it was getting colder, grey and sometimes it started to snow. We were always a little scared, that the real winter starts, so that our tour becomes a winter desaster. But after some hours, we had great sunny views on Murghab again. That's not only good for the pictures, but especially for a safe trip,, you will see later in the Wakhan Corridor.
Kubat offered to show us a small village, where the Tajiks measured the coldest day with less than -60 degrees Celsius, it's named Bulunkul and of course we said yes. It was a real snowy offroad show to get there.
Bulunkul is a village located in the Murghob District of the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region of Tajikistan. It is a remote and mountainous area, located at an altitude of over 3,700 meters above sea level. The village is known for its stunning alpine lake, also called Bulunkul, which is one of the highest altitude lakes in Central Asia. The region experiences extremely cold temperatures, with winters lasting for up to eight months, making life challenging for the local population who rely mainly on livestock herding for their livelihood. Despite its isolation and harsh climate, Bulunkul is a unique and beautiful destination, with breathtaking landscapes and a fascinating culture. Here some impressions of the difficult circumstances there.
So blue eyes, we love this portrait!
Yaks
Returning from our offroad adventure we met some Yaks very closely. Quite closely, as they are shy and walking away.
Yaks are an important part of the culture and way of life for the Pamir people around Murghab. These large, shaggy bovines are well adapted to the high-altitude environments of the Pamir Mountains and are used for transportation, milk, and meat. The Pamir people have domesticated yaks for centuries and have a deep cultural connection to these animals. Yaks are typically kept in herds and are an important source of livelihood for many people in the region. The yaks' thick fur is used to make clothing and blankets, and their strength and endurance make them invaluable as pack animals in the rugged terrain of the Pamir Mountains. Visitors to the region can often see yaks grazing in the high-altitude meadows, and may even have the opportunity to ride on a yak's back or try yak milk or meat dishes.
In the Pamir Mountains, the cost of a yak can vary depending on several factors such as age, size, breed, and location. Generally, the price of a yak in this region can range from around $500 to $2,000 USD. The cost of a yak in the Pamir Mountains is influenced by factors such as the animal's health, its breeding potential, and the demand for yaks in a particular area. It's important to note that yaks are an important source of livelihood for the Pamir people, and the price of a yak may vary depending on the intended use of the animal, such as for milk, meat, or transportation.
Murghab
Murghab was often a topic in our car, sure, because it is the home town of our driver Kubat, and that day we got there. And it was beautiful, a very special place, one of the highest towns on earth, with such a difficult life environment, but people make it.
One of our favorite shots, what an incredible landscape and just right in front is Murghab.
Murghab and its container bazaar. Creative way of setting up a shopping floor.
Murghab, the remote town in Tajikistan, is home to a unique bazaar known as the "container bazaar." As the name suggests, this market is made up of shipping containers that have been repurposed into makeshift shops. Local vendors sell everything from clothing to electronics, and the market is a hub for trade between Tajikistan, Afghanistan, and China. Due to the town's isolated location and harsh climate, many goods must be transported via the bazaar, making it a vital economic center for the region. Visitors to the container bazaar can experience a fascinating blend of cultures and witness the ingenuity of local entrepreneurs who have found a creative solution to the challenges of commerce in a remote area.
Kara Kul, a stunning high-altitude lake situated at an elevation of 3,900 meters. The turquoise waters of the lake are a sight to behold and are a photographer's dream come true. And on the road to Karakul it went up up up to a 4666m pass, we had a funny photo shoot with Kubat on his car and the landscape was just incredible, it is hard to find words for it. And often, pictures can't show the size of the moments.
Our favorite picture from Murghab, for the second time, never too beautiful.
Lake Karakul
Karakul Lake, located in the Pamir Mountains of Tajikistan, is a spectacular destination that has been attracting tourists from all over the world. The lake is situated at an altitude of 3,900 meters above sea level and is known for its crystal-clear waters, surrounded by towering mountains that reflect off the surface of the lake, creating a stunning vista. The name Karakul translates to "black lake" in Tajik, and it is so named because of the dark rocks that line its shores. The lake is also a popular spot for fishing, with abundant stocks of trout and other fish. Visitors to Karakul Lake can enjoy a range of outdoor activities, including hiking, camping, and mountaineering, as well as soaking up the stunning scenery. With its remote location, high altitude, and unique beauty, Karakul Lake is an unforgettable destination for adventure seekers and nature lovers alike.
The lake showed his icy side short after the winter, but the weather could not have been better for a magic visit. We said goodbye for a walk and left Kubat at the lunch place. After an hour he came by car to pick us up :-D
On day 5, we continued our journey and reached Langar, a small town situated on the banks of the Panj River. The town is home to some of the oldest and most important historical sites in the region, including the Sufi shrine of Rumi and the ancient Buddhist complex of Vrang. We spent a night and the hours around exploring the town and its surroundings before heading back on the Pamir Highway.
The spectacular part of it, was the Wakhan Corridor and Wakhan Valley. Driving through the Wakhan Corridor can be an exhilarating and nerve-wracking experience, as we discovered on our trip through Tajikistan. The road was covered in snow and we had already encountered a few obstacles along the way. At one point, we even got stuck in the snow and had to use all kinds of tools and tricks to free our car. Just when we thought we might have to turn back, we came across a collapsed road that had been hit by the snow melt. We were all a little nervous, but after clearing some space around the collapsed part, we were able to pass through. But the most terrifying part was yet to come – a narrow road with snow and ice on all sides, and deep cliffs plunging into the valley below. We all felt a sense of relief and excitement when we finally arrived in Langar, exhausted but happy to be warm and safe.
Beautiful mountains still in the winter dream. Even that we got stuck could not reduce the joy of being there.
The Wakhan Corridor is a narrow strip of land that stretches for approximately 220 kilometers (140 miles) along the border between Afghanistan and Tajikistan. The valley floor of the corridor is generally located at an elevation of around 3,000 meters (9,800 feet) above sea level, with some sections reaching up to 4,500 meters (14,800 feet) in elevation. The steep cliffs and rugged terrain on either side of the corridor can plunge to depths of more than 1,000 meters (3,300 feet) in some places, making for some breathtaking and dramatic scenery.
One of the most exciting and unusual things about traveling through the Wakhan Corridor during winter is the fact that the Panj River, which serves as the natural border between Afghanistan and Tajikistan, can freeze over in some sections. This creates a unique opportunity to cross the border on foot or by car, without the need for a visa or official documentation, which is not recommended at all. During our own journey through the corridor, we were fortunate enough to witness this phenomenon firsthand. Although we only saw a few people, including a shepherd with his flock of sheep, on the Afghan side of the border, we were still cautious due to the region's complex and volatile political situation. Our driver, Kubat, reminded us to be careful and not spend too much time taking pictures, as we could never be sure who might be watching us from across the river – even the slightest misstep could potentially have serious consequences.
Looking back, this was undoubtedly the most thrilling and memorable part of our trip, and it reminded us of the challenges and rewards that come with exploring new and remote regions of the world.
The Wakhan Corridor can be glimpsed from the valley slit, but it was difficult to capture it in a photo. At the very bottom, the Panj River runs, sometimes as deep as 1000m, serving as the border between Afghanistan and Tajikistan. And we were up high.
The valley, flat and visible with the non existent frozen border.
The collapsed road, we took stones down from the hill to make it easier to pass and to secure the collapsed piece.
The successful moment of truth. Afterwards it did not look as spectacular as in this moment.
The spectacular Wakhan Valley from our road on top with a shephard and his team in front of us. They seem to be well-trained, the dog and shephard give signs and they walk on the right so that we could pass. That road is by the way not called highway anymore;)
A group of Shephards with donkeys in front of the corridor, you can see behind them.
Arriving Langar, let's have a quick look on the small village:
Langar is a village located in the Wakhan Valley of Tajikistan, near the border with Afghanistan.
It is situated at an altitude of around 3,300 meters, surrounded by towering mountain ranges and dramatic scenery.
The Wakhan Valley is known for its rich history and culture, and Langar is home to a number of ancient sites and landmarks, including a 4th century Buddhist stupa and a 12th century Islamic mausoleum.
The village is also a popular starting point for treks and hikes in the surrounding mountains, including the imposing Karl Marx Peak and the scenic Shokhdara Valley.
Langar is known for its warm and hospitable community, where travelers can experience the local way of life, enjoy traditional food and music, and learn about the region's unique customs and traditions.
Day 6 was our last day with completely new impression, fortresses, another hot spring and landscapes. After finishing day 6 we reached Chorogh again.
The Wakhan Valley, located in the eastern part of Tajikistan and northeastern Afghanistan, is a region steeped in history and culture. The valley is known for its stunning natural beauty, but it is also home to a vast array of ancient fortresses that line both sides of the border between Tajikistan and Afghanistan. These fortresses were built in ancient times to protect the region from invaders, and many of them have survived to this day, providing a fascinating insight into the history of the region. The fortresses are made of mud and stone, and their strategic location on high cliffs and steep mountainsides made them difficult to access and attack. Today, visitors to the Wakhan Valley can explore these ancient fortresses and learn about the history and culture of the region. With their unique architecture, breathtaking vistas, and rich cultural heritage, the fortresses of the Wakhan Valley are a must-see for anyone interested in the history and culture of Central Asia.
Nice to wake up like this with fresh air at around 5 degrees, which felt like 15 in the sunlight.
The Tajik Fortress on top of the Wakhan Valley.
The donkey is still a very important and popular animal to support people in their daily life.
Donkeys have been an integral part of the Pamiri people's way of life for centuries. These hardy animals have been used for transportation, carrying goods and even as a source of milk for the people living in the harsh mountainous terrain of the Pamir region. The importance of donkeys in the daily life of the Pamiri people cannot be overstated, as they are relied upon heavily for many tasks that would otherwise be impossible. For the Afghan Pamiri people, who are separated from their Tajik counterparts only by a border, donkeys are just as important. These animals are used to traverse the rugged terrain of Afghanistan, where modern transportation is often non-existent.
We would highly recommend the documentary "Mit dem Esel durch Afghanistan" by Samuel Häde, which showcases the importance of donkeys in the daily lives of the Afghan Pamiri people. It is a beautiful and informative documentary that highlights the resilience of these animals and their crucial role in the lives of the people who depend on them. Greetings to Samuel at this point, thinking back to our joint Berlin nights :)
A nice visit in the Pamir Museum on the road.
A lot of different vegetation.
They called the entire Afghan village to clean the road from melt.
On day 7 of our journey on the Pamir highway, something unexpected happened. After lunch, the road was closed for four long hours until 5pm. The reason? The mountain road, which is the only bottleneck road in both directions, was blocked due to construction work related to the Chinese Belt and Road Initiative (BRI). This meant that we had no choice but to wait, enduring the bumpy terrain and the scorching sun while the Afghan border and the mountain road were only 50 meters away. We were lucky that the Taliban didn't appear to check the border, but the wait was still a time-wasting experience, which we used for some meditation in the sun, checking the Pamir people around and recording birthday video messages.
The beginning of the the end
The BRI is a massive infrastructure project led by China, which aims to connect the country to the rest of the world through a network of roads, railways, ports, and other infrastructure. The project has revived the Silk Road, the ancient trade route that connected China to the Mediterranean, and is transforming the economic landscape of the region.
As we sat there waiting for the road to reopen, it was clear that the construction sites we could see were a significant part of this project. The Pamir highway is a crucial link between China and Central Asia, and as part of the BRI, it's undergoing significant upgrades. The road is being widened and made smoother, but as a result, the traffic has been impacted, and delays like the one we experienced are expected to continue for years to come. And for tourists many parts of the Pamir Highway tour will bot be the same anymore, so hurry to get on this road, as long as you can get this great adventure.
Despite the potential benefits of the BRI, there are concerns about the project's environmental impact, as well as its geopolitical implications. Critics accuse China of using the project to extend its influence and control over other countries, while supporters argue that the BRI will boost economic growth and promote connectivity.
In the end, the road reopened, and we continued on our journey. The wait had been a little exhausting, but enough opportunity to see the surroundings from different other perspectives.
One little side story: Ramadan started two days earlier, so we were hiding in the car to drink and eat. It was so hot and all were very disciplined and didn't touch a bottle of water during the whole afternoon, wow.
Second fun fact, not funny: It was so dusty and sandy, we had to clean our whole backpacks, the seats of the car were dirty, just everything was so dirty and our lungs must have looked orange-red from all the sand :)
On day 8 we slowly understood, that this is the end and time for a farewell. The road became better again, so that it was a very relaxed, sunny and clean drive. Kubat cleaned the entire car in the morning, dusty time was over and coming back to Dushanbe new customers were waiting, so the car had to be clean:) It was time to really enjoy the last moments on this remarkable road and to reflect the last 7 days, but the route was too short to complete the reflection process. Too much happened and too many great reminder stayed in our heads to be able to get through it within some hours.
This tour will always stay with us, it was one of the very special trips and we highly recommend to do the same, donor during season time, if it's a little warmer and less challenging, if you want :)
Comments