Pamir Day 1: Green, Tourquoise and Afghan

Let's give you some ideas, how incredible and unforgettable our 8 days have been in the Pamir Mountains of Tajikistan.

We left the city - Dushanbe - finally our tour began. And after some first switchbacks we had our first stop with a big market and an incredible view over the Nurek Reservoire and Dam. The colors were so amazing, turquoise water, green bushes and hills.

Some quick facts about the Nurek Reservoire:

• The Nurek Dam is located on the Vakhsh River in Tajikistan, approximately 70 kilometers southeast of the capital, Dushanbe.

• It is one of the tallest dams in the world, standing at a height of 300 meters (984 feet).

• Construction of the dam began in 1961 and was completed in 1980.

• The purpose of the dam is to generate hydroelectric power and provide irrigation water for nearby farmland.

• The reservoir created by the dam, known as the Nurek Reservoir, is the largest body of water in Tajikistan.

• The dam has a capacity of 3,000 megawatts of electricity, making it an important source of power for Tajikistan and neighboring countries.

• The dam also serves as a popular tourist destination, with visitors able to take guided tours of the dam and surrounding area.

• In recent years, the dam has faced concerns over its safety and maintenance, with some experts calling for upgrades and repairs to ensure its continued stability.

It stayed that green with a lot of outdoor shops along the streets, where they sold fruits and meat, hanging from trees at a temperature of 27 degrees, I wouldn't buy that. Some donkeys and a first taste of Tajikistans huge number of sheets. We couldn't believe the intensity of the colors.

The entire village at some games on the Nowruz day. Fighting sports seems to be a popular one in Central Asia, our driver's son is doing and some guys at the market of Tashkent told us as, too.

Another short stop was at Hulbuk Fortress and afterwards we found out, that this was even one of the biggest cities of Central Asia from the 9th to the 12th century. The ongoing restauration of the fortress is a part of a touristic modernization on the way to the Pamir Highway. We had a nice short stay, but the guide was speaking only Russian and Tajik, and our driver translated only parts of it, so that it stayed a little secret for a while :) But we understood, that the fortress helped to defend the city against Arabs, Turkish and Mongol Tribes, who were interested in the region.

A lot of turtles inside of the fortress surprised us. We almost stepped on them because we weren't expecting them.

As we ascended the winding switchbacks, we were greeted with breathtaking views of the lush green valley we had just driven through.

The road was completely new, built up and funded by the Chinese's Silk Road program. Here we encountered the border to GBAO (wait a minute until you learn more about GBAO) in Tajikistan, a fiercely independent area within the country's highlands. The border was heavily guarded, reflecting the ongoing tension between Dushanbe and GBAO. The conflict dates back to the Soviet era, when GBAO was granted autonomous status due to its remote location and rugged terrain. Despite ongoing negotiations, tensions remain high between the two sides, creating a sense of unease for travelers passing through the region.

Quickly about the Silk Road and China

Some basic information now, so that you can enjoy dozens of stunning pictures later with the right background knowledge.

China's ambitious plan to renew the ancient Silk Road trade route through its "One Belt, One Road" initiative involves a significant investment (1 trillion USD) in infrastructure across Central Asia, stretching as far as Germany and Africa. The initiative is aimed at promoting economic development and trade between China and its partners along the route. However, there are concerns about the potential risks and challenges associated with the initiative. Some poor countries in the region may struggle to repay the funds, particularly given the current economic challenges they face. Additionally, there are concerns about the potential for the initiative to deepen political and economic dependence on China, as well as the environmental impact of the infrastructure projects involved. Nonetheless, the initiative represents a major effort by China to expand its influence and economic footprint in the region and beyond.

This road is important to be mentioned here as our trip was mainly an off-road adventure. Up in the mountains, I would not call the M41 highway anymore. It was unbelievable, how trucks were fighting with the challenging environment and an almost non-existing road, later in heights of more than 4000m, speeding up to 30km/h max. The investments will modernize the region quickly, so hurry up, if you want to get on this off-road adventure :)

We got familiar to situations like these, but it was an important adventurous part of our journey. And Kubat knew his car down to the smallest screw, so that everything was fixed again in a maximum of 15 minutes. Don't worry, a) the drivers have everything with them, including certain spare parts, they are well prepared and b) you don't typically come in the off-season, as we did. But we have not regretted a second.

M41, Pamir Highway - and what's what, please?

So let's go back on the M41, later called Pamir Highway, a short explanation, why that:

The M41 in Tajikistan is a road that stretches for over 1,200 kilometers through some of the most remote and mountainous regions of Central Asia. One section of this road is known as the Pamir Highway, named for the Pamir Mountains that it passes through. The Pamir Highway is considered one of the most spectacular and challenging drives in the world, with stunning views of snow-capped peaks, deep valleys, and rugged terrain. The road was built during the Soviet era as a strategic military route, but today it is used by locals, tourists, and traders to connect the remote towns and villages of the region. Despite its challenges, the Pamir Highway is a must-see for adventurous travelers seeking to explore the natural beauty and rich culture of Tajikistan and the surrounding countries.

Is Pamir Highway the highest of the world?

The Pamir Highway is considered to be one of the highest highways in the world, but it is not the highest. It reaches elevations of over 4,600 meters (15,000 feet) in some areas, making it one of the most challenging and scenic routes for drivers and cyclists. However, there are other roads in the world that reach higher elevations, such as the Karakoram Highway in Pakistan and China, which reaches over 4,700 meters (15,400 feet) in elevation, and the Leh-Manali Highway in India, which reaches over 5,300 meters (17,500 feet) in elevation.

And back to GBAO - what is that?

GBAO (Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Oblast) is an autonomous region located in the eastern part of Tajikistan, bordering Afghanistan, China, and Kyrgyzstan. The people of GBAO have a distinct culture, language, and history from the rest of Tajikistan. However, there have been ongoing tensions between GBAO and the government in Dushanbe, particularly in relation to issues of political and economic autonomy. These tensions have occasionally led to violent clashes between local residents and government forces.

Travelers who wish to visit GBAO need to obtain a special permit from the Tajik government, as the region is considered a restricted area due to the ongoing political tensions. The permit must be obtained in advance of travel, and travelers are required to provide detailed information about their itinerary and the purpose of their visit. The permit can be obtained through the Tajik embassy or consulate in your home country or through a local travel agency in Tajikistan. Despite the additional paperwork and restrictions, visiting GBAO can be a unique and rewarding experience for adventurous travelers who want to explore this remote and fascinating corner of Tajikistan.

Back on the road to the border of Afghanistan

On day 1 it's already the highlight to spot some border villages of Afghanistan along the Panj River. It was slowly getting dark, but not less exciting. Some Afghan kids were shouting "help" across the river, as we stopped to take some pictures out of the car, but at that place it was too far, to understand, if it was a joke or not. They continued laughing and playing on the river.

One of the first Afghan villages we experienced, only separated by the Panj River, sometimes a huge river valley, sometimes like here, only a small (15m) but wild (speeded up by the winter melt of the mountains) water street and later...even no border, because frozen and quasi not existing. You had the feeling to be close to the people, being able to talk to them.

The border between Tajikistan and Afghanistan is a complex and sometimes volatile boundary that stretches for over 1,400 kilometers. Due to the ongoing conflict in Afghanistan, the border is heavily guarded and since the Taliban took over completely closed. We might give some more details about this exciting topic in another blog post.

Today, the border is demarcated by the Panj River, which runs for over 1,000 kilometers along the boundary between the two countries. The river is an important source of water for both Tajikistan and Afghanistan, and it is a major hub for trade and commerce in the region.

The Panj River is an important source of water, food, and livelihoods for the people who live along its banks in both Tajikistan and Afghanistan. The river is home to a variety of fish species, including trout and catfish, which provide an important source of protein for local communities. In addition, the fertile soil along the riverbanks is used for agriculture, with crops such as wheat, barley, and vegetables grown in the area.

The people who live along the Panj River are primarily farmers and herders, with some also involved in fishing and trade. Many of the villages along the river have a traditional way of life, with customs and traditions that have been passed down through generations. Despite the challenges of living in a remote and sometimes volatile region, the people of the Panj River are known for their hospitality and resilience, and visitors to the area can expect a warm welcome and a glimpse into a unique and vibrant culture.

Since the Tajik side looked more modern, we noticed that the obvious dependency on the Panj River is greater on the Afghan side. In every village, carpets and laundry lay on the stones of the shore to dry in the sun, children played near the water and electricity was not that lightfully used as on the Tajik side. And shepherds led their flocks along the bank. On the Tajik side, we tended to have the feeling that the river was definitely needed, but that people were looking for distance, perhaps also in the new situation with the Taliban, which we have been told has not yet caused any critical incidents.

Our arrival in our guesthouse in Kulaikhum with our driver Kubat. For the locals Nowruz was the start of spring, so of course we confirmed to dine outside. It didn't feel like, but it was a little more than 0 degrees, so we grabbed the jackets for the first time. Our last piece of internet was gone, so Kubat gave us a bit of Hotspot to tell everyone we are ok.

The first Homestay-Like room, but with an own bathroom...with cold water and no heating system, like for the rest of the 8 days. It was a freeze night, but we got used to the new circumstances. Once we had an oven heated with wood, another night they switched on small electrical heaters, they really took care of us. As they found out, that we are "family", they took us into a double bed. But we knew this kind of rooms from before, because of the Islam circumstances they did not always have double bed offerings. Anyway we got into it, these experiences make traveling so special, you just have to let it happen. The importance of things change the direction, you have to enjoy it.

And there was a first little situation. After dinner we went to bed and we did not fall asleep yet, when the whole complex started to shake. An earthquake. It took a moment until we knew, what's happening. We were in such a "special" place, with the Afghan border on the other side of the river, high mountains around us in the end of winter, when there was still melt and water running down the hills, anything was possible. Patrik could only remember an earthquake during his childhood, again a kind of freedom we should appreciate, we are not living in too dangerous places in Europe, compared to many other extreme circumstances around the world.

We did not have internet and we decided to leave the room, if the floor starts to shake again. People were better trained than us and started to go back to their rooms again and with a "What's wrong, it's over, go to sleep.", the host sent us back to our room. Patrik kept it for himself until the end of the tour, but the earthquake with the magnitude of over 6 caused several dead people in the area of the epicenter, Afghanistan and Pakistan. So we were lucky, but kind of scary how strong the quake has been so far away from the epicenter. Our sleeping room was shaking like on the dancefloor. A screenshot from breakfast on the next morning, so we knew it was serious:

We didn't know before, sometimes it's better to not knowing anything, otherwise you will stay at home :)

Tajikistan is a country that is highly prone to earthquakes due to its location in a seismically active region. The country lies within the collision zone between the Indian and Eurasian tectonic plates, which causes frequent seismic activity. Earthquakes in Tajikistan can range in strength, with some being moderate and others very strong, causing widespread damage and loss of life. In recent years, several earthquakes have occurred, with the most severe being a 7.2 magnitude quake in 2015 that killed more than 4,000 people. The risk of earthquakes in Tajikistan is a serious concern, as the country is vulnerable to seismic activity due to its mountainous terrain and the high density of population living in earthquake-prone areas.

So it happens all the time, but we didn't feel any other earthquake the days after.

The first day was done. It was more like the preparation stage on the way up into the Pamirs, but was already so adventurous in the first hours, wow. We were excited about what's next.