Cremations in magic Varanasi - The most sacred place for Hindus

After a wonderful time exploring the picturesque landscapes of Kerala and the charming city of Kochi and Munnar, we are now flying to Varanasi. Varanasi is all we have expected from India. After visiting this place you will either hate and leave India or you will keep coming back planning your next trip here. We are the second once of course. Varanasi is revered by millions of Hindus worldwide as the spiritual capital of India, and a pilgrimage to this city is believed to be one of the most important experiences in one's lifetime.

Located on the banks of the sacred Ganga river, Varanasi is believed to be the abode of Lord Shiva and is steeped in myth and legend. This ancient city, also known as Kashi or Banaras, is named after the two tributaries of the Ganges, Varuna and Asi, which flow through the city. The holy city is home to numerous temples, ghats, and ashrams, and is considered one of the seven holiest places in Hinduism.

Varanasi is a melting pot of cultures, religions, and traditions, and is a must-visit destination for anyone interested in experiencing the spiritual and cultural richness of India. Join us as we explore the sacred city of Varanasi and delve into its history, culture, and spirituality.

The best time to visit Varanasi is during the winter months (November to February). We have been there in April (beginning of summer) and it was way to warm during the day. If we can help you plan your trip, we think the best area to look for accommodation is Assi Ghat.

Patrik after the visit of the Golden Temple.

You are directly integrated into the rituals, you see many of the tourists with colors in their faces and accessoires. We did not see a more open country and culture with Hindus, Muslims, Buddhists, Christians and many more, all living together in a very peaceful and respectful way… and they talk about it.

Varanasi, also known as Benares or Kashi, is an ancient city located in the northern Indian state of Uttar Pradesh. It is considered to be one of the holiest cities in India, and is an important pilgrimage site for Hindus. The city is situated on the banks of the Ganges River, and it is believed that a dip in the holy river can purify one's sins and lead to spiritual liberation.

The name "Varanasi" is derived from the two rivers that flow on either side of the city, the Varuna and the Asi. According to Hindu mythology, Lord Shiva himself founded the city, making it one of the most important spiritual centers in the world.

The city is home to numerous temples and ghats (steps leading down to the river), each with its own significance and legend. The Kashi Vishwanath Temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva, is the most revered temple in the city. Other popular temples include the Durga Temple, the Sankat Mochan Hanuman Temple, and the Kaal Bhairav Temple.

Varanasi is also known for its ghats ( staircases made of stone that stretch for 5 kilometres and lead directly to the waters of the sacred Ganges), which are used for bathing and performing religious rituals. The Dashashwamedh Ghat is the most popular ghat and is known for its daily Ganga aarti (a Hindu ritual of offering prayer to the river). The Manikarnika Ghat is also significant, as it is believed to be the place where Lord Shiva meditated and where Parvati, his wife, bathed.

The Manikarnika Ghat during our sunset boat ride from the Ganga river. One of the most impressive places of the city.

Cremations on the Ganga River

However, Varanasi is perhaps most well-known for its human burnings. The city is considered to be one of the holiest places to die, and many Hindus believe that dying in Varanasi and being cremated on the banks of the Ganges can lead to salvation. According to Hindu beliefs, Mother Ganga's waters help wash away the sins of the whole world.

The practice of burning bodies in Varanasi dates back thousands of years and is deeply rooted in Hindu tradition. The process is known as Antyesti and it involves the body being bathed in the river before being placed on a funeral pyre and set alight. The ashes are then scattered into the river, which is believed to carry the soul to Moksha, or liberation from the cycle of birth and death. A human body burns around 3 hours. The bone that remains after cremation in Varanasi is called the "kada sukhav" bone. It is the bone in the wrist joint that is believed to be the last one to burn completely during the cremation process. This bone is collected by the family members of the deceased and preserved in an urn or a clay pot, which is then submerged in the holy River Ganges.

Despite the spiritual significance of the practice, it has been controversial in recent years, with some arguing that it is unsanitary and contributes to pollution in the Ganges River. However, the practice continues to this day, with thousands of bodies being cremated on the banks of the Ganges every year.

Varanasi's spiritual significance and its human burnings make it a unique and fascinating place to visit. The city's winding alleyways, bustling markets, and colourful temples are a feast for the senses, and its deep-rooted spirituality and devotion make it an unforgettable destination for anyone seeking a deeper understanding of Hinduism and the human experience.

The eternal flame. It is said, that it burns since more than 3500 years.

The Manikarnika Ghat in Varanasi is one of the oldest and most sacred sites for Hindus. It is believed that the sacred fire, also known as the eternal flame, at the Manikarnika Ghat has been burning for thousands of years. However, there is no concrete evidence to support this claim.

The continuous burning of the sacred fire at Manikarnika Ghat is attributed to the legend of Lord Shiva, who is believed to have established the sacred site. The fire is considered to be a symbol of purity and liberation from the cycle of birth and death.

The fire at the Manikarnika Ghat is maintained by the Dom Raja (King of the Untouchables), a community of Hindu priests who have been responsible for maintaining the cremation ground and the sacred fire for generations. The fire is kept burning using wood, ghee (clarified butter), and other combustible materials.

While the exact duration of the continuous burning of the sacred fire at Manikarnika Ghat is unknown, it is believed to have been burning for several centuries. The fire is an important aspect of the Hindu funeral rites.

Prepared wood to be used for the cremations. They build up the pyres with it to burn the dead bodies.

The upper floor of the Manikarnika Ghat, used during the floody monsoon time to continue the cremations while it‘s raining.

The orange costumes are from the embalming before the male family members carry the body on a bare towards the Ganges. The colored substances are removed before incineration because they burn worse and pollute the environment further when burned.

These incredible impressions, which are unfamiliar to us Europeans, can hardly be topped by experiences from Varanasi, but there is so much more to experience. Varanasi is the pilgrimage site par excellence for Hindus and is developing into the Mecca of Hinduism, as we were proudly told.

The Morning and Evening Ceremonies

Varanasi is famous for its morning and evening ceremonies on the banks of the Ganga river. The morning ceremony is known as "Subah-e-Banaras," which starts early in the morning before sunrise, while the evening ceremony is known as "Ganga Aarti," which takes place just after sunset.

During these ceremonies, Hindu priests perform various rituals and offer prayers to the river Ganga, which is considered to be a sacred river by Hindus. The ceremonies involve the chanting of mantras, the ringing of bells, the waving of lamps, and the burning of incense.

The Ganga Aarti is a grand spectacle with hundreds of people gathering to watch the ceremony. The priests perform the ceremony on a specially built platform called the 'Aarti Ghat,' which is decorated with flowers and lights. The ceremony involves the lighting of lamps, which are then offered to the river. The atmosphere is charged with the sound of hymns, the fragrance of flowers and incense, and the sight of the lamps reflecting off the river.

To experience these magical moments, tourists usually wake up early in the morning to attend the Subah-e-Banaras ceremony and stand in the crowd for the Ganga Aarti ceremony in the evening. These ceremonies offer a unique opportunity to witness the spiritual and cultural richness of India and are an unforgettable experience for all who attend.

On the way to find a good boat for the evening ceremony, which is a great opportunity to watch the city and its Ghat riverfront from the Ganga river, a completely new perspective. This guy was talking to me for minutes, even if I refused his offer to use his boat. He was only one out of dozens.

We bought some flowers for the ceremony…

…and ready to go.

And as soon as the sun disappeared, we reached the night ceremony:

Selfie Time

During the entire trip we were asked for a lot of Selfies with Locals. Sometimes it is fun, mostly it was a nice interaction with a lot of memory snapshots for both, the Indians and us. In Agra later, our guide warned us, that groups of young men could use the pictures for bad things in the internet, we had to ask him twice, what he means. He mentioned, that they cut your head out of the picture and us it for obscene stuff. Anyway, as we post our pictures in the internet, we did not take it too serious, but tried to avoid obvious groups of young men, but continued our fun with nice families.

Our boat trip we just took with locals only, there was no other tourist, just 25 Indians and us on the Ganga river :) And it took a while until they woke up, but then we had to do one selfie after the other and we met a woman, her name is Jelaja, who is a truck driver of her own company and she carried a huge cargo from Kerala to Kashmir, what is rare as a woman. She is a real influencer in India, as she is posting her stories on the truck on Instagram. Nice story and we are happy to link to her Puthettu Travel Vlog :)

Varanasi Highlights at a glance

But this was far not all, what Varanasi can provide. Here are some of the most sacred and important places to visit in Varanasi:

1. Kashi Vishwanath Temple - Dedicated to Lord Shiva, this temple is one of the most important and revered temples in India. It is believed that a visit to this temple can bring salvation and liberation from the cycle of birth and death.

2. Dashashwamedh Ghat - This is one of the oldest and most popular ghats in Varanasi. It is believed that Lord Brahma performed a sacrifice here to welcome Lord Shiva, and the ghat is also famous for its daily Ganga aarti.

3. Manikarnika Ghat - This is one of the most important and sacred ghats in Varanasi. It is believed that Lord Shiva himself meditated here, and it is the main ghat for cremation ceremonies.

4. Sarnath - Located just outside of Varanasi, Sarnath is an important Buddhist pilgrimage site. It is where Buddha gave his first sermon after attaining enlightenment and is home to many ancient temples and monasteries.

5. Bharat Kala Bhavan Museum - This museum is located within the Banaras Hindu University and is home to a vast collection of artifacts, including sculptures, paintings, and textiles. It is a must-visit for anyone interested in Indian art and history.

6. Tulsi Manas Temple - This temple is dedicated to Lord Rama and is believed to be the place where the epic Ramayana was written. The walls of the temple are adorned with beautiful murals depicting scenes from the Ramayana.

7. Assi Ghat - This is one of the southernmost ghats in Varanasi and is an important site for Hindu rituals and ceremonies. It is also home to a temple dedicated to Lord Shiva. We lived very close to the Ghat (3min walk), what is great to consider, so that you can experience the ceremonies and the special atmosphere of the old town as often and intense as possible.

8. Ramnagar Fort - Located on the banks of the Ganges River, this fort is an impressive example of Mughal architecture. It was the residence of the Maharaja of Varanasi and is now home to a museum showcasing the royal collections.

9. Kedar Ghat - This ghat is famous for its association with Lord Shiva and is believed to be the place where the sage Narada received the knowledge of music from the god himself.

10. Chunar Fort - Located just outside of Varanasi, this fort has a rich history dating back to the 11th century. It is believed to have been built by the King of Kannauj and has served as a stronghold for many rulers over the centuries.

Joint Yoga, another part of the morning ritual and ceremony

Assi Ghat in Varanasi is well-known for its daily yoga sessions, which take place every morning. As the sun rises over the Ganga River, locals and visitors alike gather on the steps of the ghat to practice yoga and meditation. The yoga sessions are led by experienced instructors and are open to everyone, regardless of their skill level.

The yoga sessions at Assi Ghat offer a unique opportunity to experience the spiritual and cultural traditions of India. The atmosphere is charged with positive energy and provides a peaceful environment for relaxation and meditation. It's a great way to start your day, and the benefits of yoga and meditation are well-documented, helping to reduce stress, improve flexibility, and promote overall wellbeing.

Our “Last-Morning-Ghat-Walk“

Rising early in the morning, we made our way to the river's edge to take a last walk in the vibrant scene that unfolded before us.

From the hawkers selling trinkets and souvenirs to the locals sipping on their morning chai, the energy of the ghat was electric. The local television hold a broadcast live from the Ghat. As we watched, we marveled at the number of people taking dips in the holy Ganga river, but decided to refrain from joining them due to the known water quality issues.

Instead, we joined in with the open-air yoga session taking place on the Assi ghat, which was invigorating and a perfect way to start the day. As we looked around, we could see that the ghat was alive with activity, with people of all ages and backgrounds coming together to enjoy the unique atmosphere of this sacred place straight after the morning ceremony. The whole thing takes around 2-3 hours and this is why most hotels and guesthouses offer their breakfast from 9. Early birds, who go to the Ghat at 5am come back right on time after the spectacular morning experiences.